Technical references

This page is a collection of technical references surrounding Minolta/Sony flash equipment.

ISO flash shoe (old version)

The original AF series of cameras and flashes used a variant of ISO flash shoe. Here's the pinout:

ISO flash shoe, top is front

Signal NameIOComment
GGground (blue)
F1sync / fire flash (connect G and F1) (red)
F2flash ready signal / data (white) [also: bidirectional serial data line “F2OUT”, “F2IN”]
F3TTL OK signal / clock (black) [also: serial data output: “F3L” + “F3H”]
F4AF assist light control (only on 9000AF, 7000AF and 5000AF)

iISO flash shoe (new version)

Later cameras and flashes used a new flash shoe which sometimes is called “iISO”. Sony calls this flash connector “Auto-lock Accessory Shoe”. Here's the pinout:

iISO flash shoe, top is front

Signal NameIOComment
GGground (blue)
F1sync/fire flash (connect G and F1) (red)
F2flash ready signal/data (white) [also: bidirectional serial data line “F2OUT”, “F2IN”]
F3TTL OK signal/clock (black) [also: serial data output: “F3L” + “F3H”]
F5/VDD1Pflash power, regulated (+5V) & control (only on Dynax/Maxxum 3000i/Alpha 3700i)
F7/PGNDGpower ground (only on Dynax/Maxxum 3000i/Alpha 3700i)
F8/VDD0Pflash power, unregulated (+6V) (only on Dynax/Maxxum 3000i/Alpha 3700i)

Note that F5, F7 and F8 are only present on the Dynax/Maxxum 3000i/Alpha 3700i and are used to power and control the D-316i and D-314i flashes.

Multi Interface flash shoe

A new flash shoe was introduced by Sony with the SLT-A99, NEX-6 and other cameras. It has an ISO-like layout, but with additional contacts underneath the front rim.

Multi Interface flash shoe, top is front

There are several functions on the MI shoe:

The pinout (seen from top/rear) is:

23 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 24

(pins 23 and 24 are connected to the frame, pin 22 is the center contact)

As you can see in the table below, many pins have multiple functions, so you can only connect one type of device at a time.

FunctionPin #IOSignal NameComment
Power and ground7GREG_GNDlogic ground
15GREG_GNDlogic ground
13PLOGIC_VDDregulated power at 3.15 V
17PUNREGunregulated battery power, fused at 1.6 A
21GPGNDunregulated battery ground
Accessory ID1ID3accessory ID bit 3
2ID2accessory ID bit 2
3ID1accessory ID bit 1
Analog microphone4GMIC_GNDmicrophone ground
5MIC_Lleft channel
6MIC_Rright channel
14MIC_Ccenter channel
GPS8GPS_PWR_CTRLGPS power control
9GPS_CTSGPS handshake
10GPS_RTSGPS handshake
11GPS_UART_TXDGPS data out
16XGPS_RSText. GPS reset
9WLAN_SD_D0WLAN data 0
10WLAN_SD_D1WLAN data 1
11WLAN_SD_D2WLAN data 2
12WLAN_SD_D3WLAN data 3
16XWLAN_RSText. WLAN reset
Audio output14AUDIO_Laudio output, left channel
16AUDIO_Raudio output, right channel
Flash18F3flash F3
19F2flash F2
20F1flash F1
22XISO_SHOE_Xflash center contact, connected to FG when flash fires. Corresponds to F1 on older shoes.
23GISO_SHOE_FGframe ground, also connected to REG_GND
24GISO_SHOE_FGframe ground

Accessory types are identified by the device by connecting the ID pins either directly to logic ground (●) or via a 470 KΩ resistor to logic ground (○).

Known accessory IDs are:

ID1ID2ID3accessory type

Flash connector

This round connector is found on some flashes and all cables and connectors. Here's the pinout:

Connector, male socket

Signal NameIOComment
GGground (blue)
F1sync / fire flash (connect G and F1) (red)
F2flash ready signal / data (white) [also: bidirectional serial data line “F2OUT”, “F2IN”]
F3TTL OK signal / clock (black) [also: serial data output: “F3L” + “F3H”]

The current Minolta AF/Sony Alpha flash system has grown quite complex, and it is not very well covered in the manuals. That's because this would involve to cover some very basic concepts, and there are many combinations of cameras and flash units with different capabilities that would have to be documented. What I try here is to explain how the Minolta flash system works in detail. This compendium assumes that you have some basic knowledge of photography, ie. you know that an aperture is and you know how a shutter works. Sony has taken over further development of the Minolta A mount (now Sony Alpha mount) and has also kept the Minolta AF flash system with their new DSLRs. When this compedium says "Minolta", the same is true for "Sony Alpha", too, except when noted otherwise.

Readers' comments

#1: Comment posted by ikoon on February 21st, 2008 - 02:53:33 PM:
I have a flash Fomei AF-280 with new iISO shoe. I wan't to trigger flash, but with connecting G and F1 nothing happen. What's wrong? Flash is OK with pressing test button.
Michael Hohner answers:
I never heard of that flash. G and F1 are the two contacts towards the rear of the flash. It should work.
#2: Comment posted by Ewen on June 28th, 2008 - 11:16:34 AM:
Hi Michael, very informative site, thanks...

If I understand your pin config for the round socket found on say the 5600HS(D) as you've described above, would I then be able to make a plug/lead to connect a remote trigger like the Cactus V2s to the flash using pins G & F1? (Manual Flash only)

Do you happen to know the name of the plug that would fit this socket?

Cheers & Thanks

Michael Hohner answers:
I don't know about this flash trigger, but connecting G and F1 will trigger the flash.

The connector is Minolta proprietary. It can be found only on Minolta/Sony cables.
#3: Comment posted by Pete on July 9th, 2008 - 01:01:40 PM:
You have to have exp. OC-1100 cable what you can modified for Cactus or PW etc.
Cactus has pc sync-port.
Michael,do know how to connect G and F1 to pc sync-connector?


Michael Hohner answers:
Most PC sync devices do not care about polarity, so you can simply connect one to the inner contact and the other to the outer contact.
#4: Comment posted by Ewen on July 21st, 2008 - 02:38:58 AM:
Thanks for the tips... I found an old KM OC extension cable in a jumble box at my local camera shop and made a hack lead that allowed me to connect the Cactus reciever. Was a lot cheaper than buying the FS1200 adaptor. The system works "OK" but I'll probably do some more mods on the reciever and change the pc-sync socket to a 2.5 or 3.5 mono socket.

Michael, it would be very handy to understand more about the signals/language between camera and flash, particularly regarding HSS
#5: Comment posted by Matias on August 30th, 2008 - 06:10:52 AM:
I want to connect a Woctron 2820 flash (That worked perfectly on my ex-Canon 350D) on my actual Sony Alpha 200, but i'm quite afraid about frying it, 'couse I'm not sure about the flash voltage and the cameras tolerance. What do you know about this? Should the flash just work or I'm risking my cameras life?

Any info about it would help me a lot :)
Michael Hohner answers:
Never heard of that flash. Sony does not specify the voltage limits of their connector.
#6: Comment posted by Charlie on September 23rd, 2008 - 07:50:12 PM:
I have a pair of flashes equiped with the old hotshoe connector wich only has F1 and G.
But they flash emidiatly when I connect them to my a100.
The resistance is 40ohm.
On my other camera there is no connection at all before the actual shortcircuit when you take a picture.

Is this the normal resistance between F1 and G on Sony SLR,s or is my a100 faulty.

Michael Hohner answers:
This seems to be normal for the A100 and several other Minolta SLRs, especially those without a built-in PC-sync connector. For these you need some electronics to attach these flashes. The new Sony FA-SH1AM should work.
#7: Comment posted by Kenith Ryan on November 20th, 2008 - 08:30:39 AM:
Great site Michael. Do you know of any way to record the signals passing between camera and flash. I recently picked up a Wireless Remote Flash Controller and would like to figure out a way to use it with my 7D and 5400HS and 5400xi flashes. I know that there is no way to have TTL with it, but I was thinking that maybe I could make an adapter for it. The camera would trigger the adapter which would in turn trigger the Remote Flash Controller. The adapter would have a control dial or slider for setting the flash duration. Even though I would still be using the flashes manually instead of using TTL metering this setup would have two benefits over my current setup of using the 5400HS in manual mode on the 7D. First, I would be able to use the flashes wireless. And second, I would have more control over the flash output. Right now I can only adjust the output in full stops. With the adapter that I envision the flashes would be set for wireless TTL mode and the adapter would be used to dial in the output that was needed, even in partial stops.
I don't know if I can do this but I am sure that it is possible. I just need to figure out the signals the adapter would send to the Wireless Remote Flash Controller to make it think that the camera is talking to it.
Michael Hohner answers:
You could connect the controller to the camera with cables and splice these to measure the signals. But in case of the wireless flash controller, I don't think this would help. DSLRs need to perform pre-flash TTL metering, and the Wireless Flash Controller simply does not implement the protocol to communicate that to the flash. So the problem is not only the communication between camera and controller, but also between controller and flash, and you can't change that with an adapter.
#8: Comment posted by Peter on December 9th, 2008 - 07:06:20 PM:
Great site - loads of info but not an exact answer to my particular problem.
I have TWO digital cameras - Sony Alpha 100 and a Minolta A1. I also have an older Minolta program 4000AF flash unit (from my film days. I would like to use the flash with the cameras and have bought a Minolta FS-1100 adapter. Mechanically they fit together OK BUT I have now been told that the FS-1100 is not a "SafeSync" adapter and could damage my cameras so I have not yet used it.
Do I need this so called SafeSync?
Will the FS-1100 work with my equipment or should I junk the flash and buy one that is directly compatible?
Your help will be most gratefully received.
Many thanks,
Michael Hohner answers:
The FS-1100 was specifically made to adapt the older Minolta flashes like the 4000AF to the newer Minolta cameras. There's no danger to the camera when using this combination.

But as already explained here, these old flashes do not really work well on digital cameras. You would only be able to use manual flash mode. For something more comfortable you need a digital capable flash, as indicated in the flash table.

#9: Comment posted by Dave on December 9th, 2008 - 09:30:52 PM:
What are the chances? I've got EXACTLY the same kit as Peter, and was about to ask much the same question, but have been beaten to it by about an hour.

FWIW I also have a Nissin 132AFi which worked on my 7000i and 600si, but does not even fire on the A100. So it looks like a new flash for me!

Great site, Michael, Sony should give you a prize. Until then, you have my thanks.
#10: Comment posted by Peter on December 10th, 2008 - 08:15:46 PM:
Thanks for the info Michael. I agree - Sony should give you a prize!
Back to my problem with the Program 400AF flash, I have got it to work in the manual mode which is a bit of a let down for such a versatile brute of a flash. At least with digital you can fire off as many test shots as you need to get the aperture selection right. I am probably up for a new flash unit that is more compatible.
Many thanks and best regards,
#11: Comment posted by kapuchy on February 8th, 2009 - 02:02:40 AM:
I have a flash SUNPAK PZ42X for SONY with iISO shoe and when connecting G and F1 nothing happen. Flash work in the manual mode. Anybody knows what must I do with F2 and F3 pins ?
#12: Comment posted by Stig on March 24th, 2009 - 02:39:40 PM:
I have a Sigma EF-430ST MA. Hope I can use it on a Sony A300 in manual mode but it does not fire. Also when connecting G and F1 it does not fire but it fires when pressing the TEST button. The voltage measured between G and F1 is 4 volts so there must be connection to the pins. Does the flashgun need some kind of signal on the other pins before it fires when connecting G and F1 or is it broken?
Michael Hohner answers:
Sigma has a history of incompatibility. It doesn't surprise me that this flash behaves differently. Sorry, I don't have a solution for your problem.
#13: Comment posted by Justyn on April 12th, 2009 - 07:54:40 PM:

I have a Kenro IR Flash Transmitter ( that I'm trying to get to work with my Sony A300 camera. I've bought a couple of different FS1100 hot-shoe adaptors but nothing seems to work. I can trigger the Kenro Transmitter quite happily from other cameras and by shorting the two pins on it's hot-shoe together.

Having read some of the above posts I was thinking that maybe the camera needs to see a flash ready signal before it will trigger an external unit?

Any ideas/advice would be hugely appreciated!

Many thanks,

Michael Hohner answers:
The camera definately tries to communicate with the flash before triggering it. Usually only cameras with a X-synch connector trigger the flash unconditionally. So unless the device emulates a flash unit properly it may not work.

Instead of using a FS-1100 adapter you may try the Sony FA-HS1AM adapter. It's an adapter specifically made to adapt such third-party devices. The FS-1100 officially only adapts older Minolta AF flashes to the new hot shoe.

#14: Comment posted by Justyn on April 14th, 2009 - 09:07:51 PM:
Thanks Michael.

I've been trying my best to avoid stumping up 90 for the FA-HS1AM so far!
#15: Comment posted by Miles on April 19th, 2009 - 03:47:16 AM:
I have a minolta 5000, and I'm wondering if the TTL ok pin is the flash quench signal.
Could this be true?
Michael Hohner answers:
I don't have further information about the flash protocol.
#16: Comment posted by Patrice on April 24th, 2009 - 04:54:21 PM:
Hi, I've got 2 flash's SONY HVL-F42AM and SIGMA EF-500 DG, both wont fire when G and F1 are shorted. But work well when mounted on my a200 body. I trying to get this working tru a radio wireless system. Thanks
Michael Hohner answers:
Make sure you use the right pins (the two rear pins), and make sure the resistance between the pins is low enough.
#17: Comment posted by Lawrence Wu on May 10th, 2009 - 08:54:29 PM:
Michael, is there any way that can disable the sleep (auto off) function in 5400hs/xi flashes? Thanks!
Michael Hohner answers:
I don't know a way to disable this feature.
#18: Comment posted by Abraham Love on June 1st, 2009 - 12:42:53 PM:
Check this Flickr link
that has a mod to stop the 4000AF turning off on its own. Might work with other Minolta flash units too.
#19: Comment posted by Sergio on July 13th, 2009 - 04:24:00 PM:
I have a flash minolta 5200th
I built a pc-sync cable, but combining F1 and G syncs up to 1/40s. Is there a way to sync faster? I also use the other pin? The flash with G and F1 is very late you can help me?
Thank you
Sergio Italy
Michael Hohner answers:
If you use a regular flash cable (Minolta OC-1100, Sony FA-CC1AM) the camera will sync up with the flash up to the camera's x-sync speed. If you use G and F1 to connect the flash to a non-Minolta camera, there's probably no way you can influence the timing much.
#20: Comment posted by Ken on August 6th, 2009 - 10:31:53 AM:
Two questions Michael.

First, do you know the thread size for the connector on the flash cable? I tried measuring mine, but ould not determine what it is with any certainty.

Second, is there a way tht I can determine how the camera tells the flash to turn off in TTL mode. I know that when the camera's meter reads enough light that it comunicates with the flash through F2 and/or F3. I want to know if I can fool the flash into thinking it is getting this signal from the camera. Thanks.
Michael Hohner answers:
The thread size is 9×0.5 mm by my measurements. But the threads are so short, so this may be not precise.

I don't have further info on the flash protocol, see comment #15 above.

#21: Comment posted by Tom Wallace on August 18th, 2009 - 01:21:20 AM:
Can anybody recomend a 3rd Party hotshoe adapter fr the A200 that will allow me to use a Vivitar 3500 (for Canon) without frying the cameras circuitry?
Michael Hohner answers:
Does it have to be a third-party adapter? The Sony FA-HS1AM has voltage protection.
#22: Comment posted by Tom Wallace on August 19th, 2009 - 11:18:48 PM:
I'm looking for something third-party with voltage protection because of the Sony unit is pretty expensive. So far the one I've seen on ebay don't have voltage protection and I'm a bit sceptical about the ones that are suposed to have it because just seem to be priced the same as the ones that don't.
#23: Comment posted by hannibal on September 5th, 2009 - 12:22:10 PM:
Sony Alpha-100 Max Trigger Voltage for Flash,please? I've got a Vivitar 2500 (9-10 V).
Michael Hohner answers:
The maximum voltage on the flash shoe is not specified, and for cameras without a studio flash socket it's probably low. If you want to be sure use an adapter with voltage protection, e.g. the Sony FA-HS1AM.
#24: Comment posted by Vincent on October 31st, 2009 - 07:04:05 AM:
Michael,excellent info you got here and sharing. I need to know if the G and F1 of my A350 can be used to trigger the Starblitz 1000 Auto Macro Flash without using the FS 1100. Can you enlighten me on this? Thanks.
Michael Hohner answers:
As far as I know this flash uses a PC sync connector, i. e. the trigger voltage is potentially high. I therefore recommend using a PC sync adapter with voltage protection, like the Sony FA-ST1AM.
#25: Comment posted by Kilrah on December 30th, 2009 - 12:48:34 AM:
It seems the F42AM really doesn't want to fire with G and F1 only, or any short of contacts for that matter. Communication must be required for it to do anything. Has someone tackled this in the meantime? I might have a go at sniffing the communications on the flash contacts if not once I receive my extension cord...
My goal is to make a strobe controller...
#26: Comment posted by Matt Fisher on February 4th, 2010 - 10:59:36 AM:
I've had great success "extending" a Sony ttl cable by cutting it in half and soldering 4-wire male phone jacks to each end, and using two gender benders to insert any length of 4 wire phone cable in between. I've tried up to 50 feet and it seems to work perfectly.

2 questions:

Is it possible to buy the male and female minolta/sony round connectors? There must be a source for them somewhere.

Any idea how the Sony triple connector splits the signals up? Would it be possible to homebrew one?

Michael Hohner answers:
I don't know a source for the connectors. These are proprietary types and are probably only made for Sony.

AFAIK the Triple Connector only splits each incoming line to the corresponding outgoing lines. There are no electronics in the box.

#27: Comment posted by James Hogan on March 17th, 2010 - 06:44:08 AM:
Is there a recommended procedure for cleaning the flash contacts on an A700 camera and /or F56AM flash.
Michael Hohner answers:
I'd use a soft pencil eraser, paper and alcohol. Don't use an abrasive pencil eraser or a stronger cleaning solvent. I'd also not use any industrial sprays directly, because it might go where you don't want it to go. Spray on a Q-tip first, then apply that to the contacts.
#28: Comment posted by nic on May 18th, 2010 - 11:36:50 PM:
I see some people asking about the signals on the TTL pin (F3), I was wondering if they found their answer. I can successfully adapt older flashes to work with Sony cameras and beleive I can get TTL-OTF to work too.

Someone reported using an SCA300 module to fire his old ISO mount flash on an A100, but he only used the F1 and G terminals. I looked into it a little more and found I could get the flash ready signal (F2) to turn on and set the camera speed. As a bonus it added an AF assist light to my Vivitar 5600.

I'm using an SCA333/2 AF module with an SCA300A cable modified with a hotshoe. I'm preparing an adapter for Pentax, using an SCA374/2 AF. These modules are TTL-OTF capable and both the A100 and *ist D/DS(2) support it. It's not ADI or P-TTL, but it works reasonably well.

The SCA modules output a single 5V pulse to trigger TTL quench. The flash outputs a clock with a low at 1.2V and a high at 2.8V on F3 and I'm stuck. I'm using a parts body (Maxxum 9000) that won't fire a flash and can't see what happens when the camera signals TTL OK. I'm expecting F3 to go to ground or low (1.2V). If this is correct then a simple inverter or flip-flop would do the job. It will be a couple months before I can get to my good 9000 body; 700 km away.

It would be great if someone could stick an oscilloscope on F3 between the camera and flash and let me know what goes on. I use a piece of aluminium foil folded in a 1.5 mm strip, place it over the camera contact, then slide the flash over. Attach the scope probe to it and get the ground from the hotshoe.

I'm planning a PDF with all the details and will be more than happy to share with everyone.
Michael Hohner answers:
Just to make it clear: DSLRs like the A100 do not support TTL-OTF, so making TTL-OTF work on the flash will not help. The camera still does not support it. DSLRs do pre-flash metering TTL (or ADI), and unless you get the flash to support that (I know of only one modification of the 5400HS that does it), you're limited to manual flash.
#29: Comment posted by nic on May 21st, 2010 - 01:05:28 AM:
Darn, you're right. Not to make excuses, I just mis-read the SCA333 manual. Didn't realize Sony took over film cameras too. Still, I'd want to make TTL work for film cameras and those 3 Pentax DSLRs.
#30: Comment posted by Claudio on June 8th, 2010 - 07:22:00 PM:
Maybe someone else already wrote that but my experience is that there must be some other signal/connection required to fire an hvl42 than just connecting G and F1. Maybe some adapters do implement this extra connection, i don't know it as the only ones i have just don't. And either my hvl 42 and metz 40mz2 would not fire with the F1-G system. BUT...they would fire if i do connect them to the camera hot shoe before removing them and trying the G-F1 connection without switching them off in the process. Once switched off and on firing.
I am now using my hvl42 and metz in this way: connect them to the camera, half shutter press, remove, mount them on adapter (wireless Poverty Wizard), fire. One day i'll get hold of a different adapter, maybe one that does not need this startup sequence to have the flash firing and see what's the difference with mines....if in the meantime the "procedure" i described above can help someone in my same situation then maybe my bad english will be forgiven....
#31: Comment posted by Ken on August 25th, 2010 - 08:40:08 AM:
I am curious if nic, from coment #28, has made any further progress. I would love to know exactly how to trigger the quench. I am not going for true TTL, but I want to be able to quench the flash.
#32: Comment posted by Roger Weber on September 13th, 2010 - 10:57:04 PM:
1. Minolta built reverse voltage protection (this not safe sync) into the FS-1100.

2. Metz will only fire with Sony DSLR's (and some Konica/Minolta cameras) if the polarity is correct.

3. Many older Metz flashes need a safe sync because of high sync voltage.

4. Copies of the FS-1100 now on the market are not safe sync protected, and do not couple TTL to the camera from the flash. (Most say they will but don't).

5. The proper adapters are available.
Michael Hohner answers:
More about the FS-1100 here.
#33: Comment posted by Kevin on October 20th, 2010 - 04:45:15 PM:
I picked up a Promaster FTD 7000M flash intending to mount it on my Sony a200. I knew I'd have to use manual power settings, but that's ok because there are plenty to choose from.

Here's the problem: when I put the flash in Manual mode, *ANY* button I press on the camera seems to reset the flash back to TTL mode where it simply fires at full power. Also, each time it would reset back to TTL mode, it'd take several seconds before I could change settings on the flash again using its buttons. I suspected one of the pins on the iISO shoe must be held in a "reset" state or something.

Next I tried to cover pins F2 and/or F3 before mounting in hopes of suppressing these "smart" features, but then the flash wouldn't fire at all. Does anyone know why?

P.S. I just now finally found a workaround, though I could have sworn I'd tried the same thing before many times unsuccessfully. If I turn off the flash, set the camera in full manual mode, turn on the flash and set the flash to manual mode, THEN the flash fires at the specified manual power. But as soon as I switch the camera to Aperture mode, the flash resets back to full-power only.
Michael Hohner answers:
This is probably normal behaviour. The original Minolta and Sony flashes behave in the same way. This is also documented in the manual of these flashes.
#34: Comment posted by Martin on November 22nd, 2010 - 02:52:38 PM:
is it possible to add a 3.5mm mono jack socket to the base of a minolta 4000, by using pins F1 and G? without opening my minolta 4000 i dont know if there is any room.

thanks in advance

Michael Hohner answers:
I do not own that flash, but maybe somebody else has tried this.
#35: Comment posted by Ion Ditoiu on November 26th, 2010 - 04:40:20 AM:
I've been trying to trick my Sony A100 flash (w/ TTL etc) into believing that a ring bulb (from Vivitar 5000 macroflash) is its own flash.
All I got is a error code on my camera LCD and no flash...
What is it?
Wrong voltage from Sony A100 sent to Vivitar ring flash?
Thank you
Michael Hohner answers:
Can you elaborate what you did there?
#36: Comment posted by Anther on January 11th, 2011 - 03:39:36 PM:
HI Michael,

This is a great site for alpha owners. I have the OC-1000 or OC Cable (Flash cable for old ISO flash shoe), do I just need to connect the G (ground) and F1 (red) on the hotshoe side then connect it to a FS1100 (camera hotshoe a200) to get my HVL-F56AM or 5400HS to trigger? Thanks.
Michael Hohner answers:
I don't quite understand. The HVL-F56AM can not be mounted on a FS-1100. What exactly is the setup, and what exactly do you want to achieve?
#37: Comment posted by Anther on January 12th, 2011 - 01:04:56 AM:
I am mounting the OC-1000 to the the FS-1100. and the the round connector to the HVL-F56AM. So I can use my Stroboframe.
Michael Hohner answers:
Why don't you simply use only a Minolta OC-1100/Sony FA-CC1AM?
#38: Comment posted by Anther on January 12th, 2011 - 03:20:22 PM:
OC-1000 and FS-1100 are the only acc. available to me at this time, but anyway I tested it again it is working now on the hvl-f56am (MANUAL MODE only), but not on the 5400HS. Thx.
#39: Comment posted by mark on February 2nd, 2011 - 11:25:07 AM:
further to #31 above from Ken, is there any way to "quench" the flash - i.e. tell it to abruptly finish as you have metered enough light for the exposure? This could be from an external light measuring apparatus .... and could avoid the preflash and so on. So essentially what you would have is a manually triggered and externally metered solution for flash duration. Metz, and the Vivitar 285HV thyristor flash are capable of this .... can the minolta flashes do it somehow? must you short together pins, or provide a termination pulse somewhere? Thanks.
Michael Hohner answers:
AFAIK the “TTL OK” signal is used to stop flash output. But I don't know more details.
#40: Comment posted by David on February 8th, 2011 - 08:25:22 AM:
I have a A100 and just bought a HVL-F42AM.
When on the camera the flash is too early, it flashes and then the shutter opens. When using it wireles it's on time.
I tested the flash on a A500 and it worked OK.
is it a setting? Thanks
Michael Hohner answers:
The flash should work the same on both cameras. Is the A100 on the latest firmware (1.04)? Is there a change when switching from ADI to pre-flash TTL on the A100? Did you clean the flash contacts of the A100?
#41: Comment posted by David on February 8th, 2011 - 12:40:09 PM:
#40 It's on 1.04, there is no change when switching from ADi to TTL. i even reset te camera to factory settings. I'll try what happens after cleaning te contacts.
#42: Comment posted by Gordon on February 19th, 2011 - 12:22:48 PM:
#33 Kevin - your PS just saved me!!! I borrowed a friend's 5D to take a few pics tomorrow and couldn't work out why my 5400HS refused to keep the power setting I wanted - putting the camera in M mode, then turning the flash on and setting the power worked a treat. Then it was just a matter of a few test shots to get the right power. Thanks for the tip :-)
#43: Comment posted by Charlie on April 15th, 2011 - 10:28:17 PM:
Michael: I like the looks of the new Sony DSC-HX100V camera but it has no shoe for an external flash. Is there any way to use the USB port on the camera to obtain a trip signal for an external flash? If not, I'm afraid I will have to pass over this very interesting new camera. Thanks
Michael Hohner answers:
The DSC-HX100V does not support external flashes.
#44: Comment posted by Luis Hoyos on September 10th, 2011 - 08:35:50 PM:
I have a DCS R1 sony camera and I got a HVL F42AM flash. What kind of adapter do I have to buy to make this flash works on my camera?
Michael Hohner answers:
The DSC-R1 uses a completely different flash system. Compatible flashes are the HVL-F32X and HVL-F1000.
#45: Comment posted by Phil Kemp on January 18th, 2012 - 03:21:16 AM:
I have a Minolta Maxxum 4000 flash and would like to know if it is possible to use this flash on a Canon Rebel EOS T3i camera? Is there an adapter for this and would voltage be an issue?
Michael Hohner answers:
The flash has a different pinout (and likely also a different protocol via the pins), so it will not work directly on a Canon camera. I've also never heard of an adapter.
#46: Comment posted by Wullie on April 19th, 2012 - 12:02:22 AM:
I have a HVL-F42M, Fires fin on Camera, Fires fine on extension Lead.
I have Pixel TF-373s which work fine on my HVL-F56AM, but they wont fire the
Any Ideas....
Michael Hohner answers:
What did the manufacturer of the trigger say?
#47: Comment posted by Wullie on April 19th, 2012 - 11:07:55 AM:
They replied today, that the pixel cant test the power on the HVL-F42M
I have asked them to explain.
I know about the problems with the 42, in that you have to fit on to camera before putting it on the Pixel receiver.
#48: Comment posted by CuriousOne on October 23rd, 2012 - 04:21:09 PM:
Thanks for such a great site.

I have a 2500D flash, and want to use it with wireless optical triger. Since camera can adjust the flash power, maybe the list of commands camera sends to flash are known, so I can built my own electronic device, which will imitate the camera and set the power of the flash?
#49: Comment posted by David on January 10th, 2013 - 12:33:27 AM:
I have a Sony Ax100 camera and I would like to adapt my flash unit HVL-F32X to work with the Ax100. Is it possible? If yes, what should I purchase as the flash adapter interface hot shoe?

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

Michael Hohner answers:
Please read the F.A.Q.!
#50: Comment posted by ferruccio on February 23rd, 2013 - 09:25:30 PM:
Ho una Konica Minolta Dimage A2 e una nuova Sony A77 e un Program flash Minolta 5600HS D e vorrei collegarli tramite cavo Flash ma non riesco a trovare il cavo che abbia l' attacco pc-sync della fotocamera e l'attacco a 4 pin del Flash Minolta, volevo sapere se esiste o se bisogna acquistare il cavo con la slitta pur avendo la connessione pc-sync su entrambe le fotocamere.
Michael Hohner answers:
I probably did not fully understand as I don't speak Italian, but you can find the cables to connect the flash to the cameras here. In shops you will probably find the Sony FA-CC1AM only, not the old Minolta version.
#51: Comment posted by Ferruccio on February 24th, 2013 - 11:51:04 AM:
I try to write in English to see if you can give me a more precise answer, I remember that I have already searched the internet but can not find just the cable but still compatible with the slide included.
I have a Konica Minolta Dimage A2 and A New Sony A77 and the United Nations Program Flash Minolta 5600HS D and I want to connect through cable Flash but I can not find the cable I've 's attack pc-sync the camera and the 4-pin attachment the Flash Minolta, I wanted to know if there is or if you have to buy the cable with the slide while having the connection pc-sync do both cameras.
Michael Hohner answers:
The correct way to attach the flash to these cameras is with the above-mentioned Sony FA-CC1AM (or Minolta OC-1100). It connects to the camera's hot shoe on one end and to the flash's 4-pin connector on the other end. Using the PC-sync socket would give you only unregulated manual flash.
#52: Comment posted by Ferruccio on February 24th, 2013 - 12:14:24 PM:
I understand, I thought that using the PC-Sync camera was the same thing to connect a flash to the hot shoe.
Thank you for the clarification
#53: Comment posted by Eric on April 26th, 2013 - 04:26:18 PM:
I have a minolta program 3500 xi flash. For highspeed photography I want to reduce flash duration. On the flash I only can bring it down to low setting but this is not fast enough. Do you know if this is possible and how?
Greetings Eric van Dongen.
Michael Hohner answers:
As you've noticed, the 3500xi does not have a real manual mode. Therefore it's not possible to manually control the power level and flash duration. You need a flash with manual control for that.
#54: Comment posted by Bert Hennink on June 22nd, 2013 - 04:52:11 PM:
I have an sony alpha 580 and a Sony HVL-F58AM flash.
I also have radio triggers that I can trigger with a PC cable.
I want to use the Sony HVL-F58AM on the camera as a fill flash from the camera and I want to trigger the external static strobes with the radio trigger.
As the body seems not to have a PC socket I would like to connect the radiotrigger to the F58AM. But I am not sure that the trigger signal of the camera is available on the external trigger connector on the flash.
If it is available I need to modify one of my PC sync cables to fit to the F58AM.
But most important first point is will it work?
Michael Hohner answers:
Assuming that the radio trigger does not use high voltages, you may be able to use lines G and F1 on the connector on the flash. But I do not know the electrical specs of these signals, and the flash trigger signal may also be transmitted as encoded messages over all the lines of the connector, so just using F1 may not work in this case. Furthermore, the plug is proprietary, so you will have difficulties getting one.

If you experiment there, you should first do some extensive measurements.
#55: Comment posted by steve chan on August 2nd, 2013 - 04:53:23 PM:
Hi Michael,

Thank you for your compendium material. It is great especially I might have to move to an A100 etc if I could not solve the problem I am posting below.

I have been relying on my A2, 5600 and 3600 since 2006? They have been most handy when I use wirelss control mode on both flash to take house pictures in those huge living rooms in the McMansions for a realestate agent.

But I am not ready to give them up. Unfortunately a heavy box fell on my A2 with the 5600 attached. All four plastic rails running along the 2 hot shoes broke. I ran across an article on getting an old 3200 hot shoe and swap it with the 5600 shoe. Looked easy enough. Should I look for an old A2 and do the same. Also would you help with the disassembly/assemble of the shoe on the A2. I saw only 2 little screws and a ribbon cable.

Thanks in advance.

Michael Hohner answers:
Sorry, I can't help you with that. I'm not a repair person, and I have not seen an A2 except briefly in a shop a decade ago.
#56: Comment posted by Ian Linden on November 7th, 2013 - 11:06:16 AM:
In reply to #54:

Mount Pixel TF-323 adapter on top of the camera, then put the F58AM on it, and connect the radio trigger to the PC sync connector on the Pixel adapter.
#57: Comment posted by keith slater on November 17th, 2013 - 08:48:31 AM:
Hi Michael. just bought a sunpak pf30x for my sony a200 took it out of the box read instructions and followed them to the letter. flash would not work. found your site read through the postings and the penny dropped i hadn't switched my camera to ttl mode. the flash works fine,it might seem obvious to the seasoned photographer but hey i'm a beginner.this might help someone i have to appologise to my supplier. thank you and merry xmas.
#58: Comment posted by frank on December 13th, 2013 - 11:51:06 PM:
hi all is the first time I enter this forum and writing from the Canary Islands of Spain kingdom I wonder if the flash sigma ef-430 super-ma is compatible with my sony alpha 35 thanks
Michael Hohner answers:
A bit of googling tells me that this flash is not compatible with DSLRs.
#59: Comment posted by Deborah Klein on December 25th, 2013 - 07:49:17 PM:
Hi Michael,
I use a Sony A77 and HVL-f58am flash. I would like to mount the flash on a light stand. What would you recommend for an adapter and flash holder? Do I need an adapter for this flash to work. Also what third party brand flashes are compatible to be slave flashes? Just getting started with my portrait business and while I have continuous lighting, I want to build up my strobe side of lighting. Thanks so much and HAPPY HOLIDAY!
Michael Hohner answers:
The flash comes with a foot that has 1/4" threads. You can use that.

Some flashes by Metz, Sigma and probably others support the Sony/Minolta wireless flash system. Check their websites for details.

#60: Comment posted by eric on December 27th, 2013 - 03:33:20 AM:
Pixel Pawn radio trigger sets are offered for Nikon, Canon, and Panasonic/Olympus (and Sony). I noticed the 3 non-Sony receivers have standard ISO style hot-shoes, but with different pin configurations. Do you know which of the 3 types of hot-shoes might trigger the Minolta AF4000 flash? Thank you for any help. Great site!
Michael Hohner answers:
Did you ask the manufacturer? They should know that.
#61: Comment posted by Raymond Morris on January 24th, 2014 - 04:30:40 PM:
I have recently purchased a Sigma 500 DG Super hot shoe flash for my a580 Sony dSlr. The flash is like new. I am new to using a hot shoe flash. I place it on the camera. The flash appears to work properly. The flash adjusts to the tele-lens I have on the camera as it should. It seems to be flashing either a little to late or too early because the pictures come out too dark. Or it could not be flashing with enough power. New batteries are installed. Is there a setting in the camera I need to change. It is on fill flash and ADI. I have a Minolta 5400XI that I also got at the same time, but of course I have use it manually. It produces the correct amount of flash. It makes great flash pictures. Is there something wrong with the Sigma or is it me?
Michael Hohner answers:
Try turning off ADI (in the camera).
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