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Technical references
This page is a collection of technical references surrounding Minolta/Sony
flash equipment.
ISO flash shoe (old version)
The original AF series of cameras and flashes used a variant of ISO flash shoe. Here's the pinout:
| ISO flash shoe, top is front |
- G = ground (blue)
- F1 = sync / fire flash (connect G and F1) (red)
- F2 = flash ready signal / data (white) [also: bidirectional serial data line “F2OUT”, “F2IN”]
- F3 = TTL OK signal / clock (black) [also: serial data output: “F3L” + “F3H”]
- F4 = AF assist light control (only on 9000AF, 7000AF and 5000AF)
iISO flash shoe (new version)
Later cameras and flashes used a new flash shoe which sometimes is called “iISO”. Here's the pinout:
| iISO flash shoe, top is front |
- G = ground (blue)
- F1 = sync / fire flash (connect G and F1) (red)
- F2 = flash ready signal / data (white) [also: bidirectional serial data line “F2OUT”, “F2IN”]
- F3 = TTL OK signal / clock (black) [also: serial data output: “F3L” + “F3H”]
- F5 = flash power, regulated (+5V) & control (only on Dynax/Maxxum 3000i/Alpha 3700i)
- F7 = power ground (only on Dynax/Maxxum 3000i/Alpha 3700i)
- F8 = flash power, unregulated (+6V) (only on Dynax/Maxxum 3000i/Alpha 3700i)
Note that F5, F7 and F8 are only present on the Dynax/Maxxum 3000i/Alpha 3700i and are
used to power and control the D-316i and
D-314i flashes.
Flash connector
This round connector is found on some flashes and all cables and connectors. Here's the pinout:
| Connector, male socket |
- G = ground (blue)
- F1 = sync / fire flash (connect G and F1) (red)
- F2 = flash ready signal / data (white) [also: bidirectional serial data line “F2OUT”, “F2IN”]
- F3 = TTL OK signal / clock (black) [also: serial data output: “F3L” + “F3H”]
Flash Timing Diagrams© 2009 Michael Hohner; This page was last changed on 2009-01-24
Readers' comments
There are 26 comment(s):| #1: Comment posted by ikoon on February 21, 2008 - 02:53:33 PM: |
|---|
| I have a flash Fomei AF-280 with new iISO shoe. I wan't to trigger flash, but with connecting G and F1 nothing happen. What's wrong? Flash is OK with pressing test button. |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| I never heard of that flash. G and F1 are the two contacts towards the rear of the flash. It should work. |
| #2: Comment posted by Ewen on June 28, 2008 - 11:16:34 AM: |
|---|
| Hi Michael, very informative site, thanks... If I understand your pin config for the round socket found on say the 5600HS(D) as you've described above, would I then be able to make a plug/lead to connect a remote trigger like the Cactus V2s to the flash using pins G & F1? (Manual Flash only) Do you happen to know the name of the plug that would fit this socket? Cheers & Thanks Ewen |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| I don't know about this flash trigger, but connecting G and F1 will trigger the flash. The connector is Minolta proprietary. It can be found only on Minolta/Sony cables. |
| #3: Comment posted by Pete on July 09, 2008 - 01:01:40 PM: |
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| Ewen, You have to have exp. OC-1100 cable what you can modified for Cactus or PW etc. Cactus has pc sync-port. Michael,do know how to connect G and F1 to pc sync-connector? Thanks! Pete |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| Most PC sync devices do not care about polarity, so you can simply connect one to the inner contact and the other to the outer contact. |
| #4: Comment posted by Ewen on July 21, 2008 - 02:38:58 AM: |
|---|
| Thanks for the tips... I found an old KM OC extension cable in a jumble box at my local camera shop and made a hack lead that allowed me to connect the Cactus reciever. Was a lot cheaper than buying the FS1200 adaptor. The system works "OK" but I'll probably do some more mods on the reciever and change the pc-sync socket to a 2.5 or 3.5 mono socket. Michael, it would be very handy to understand more about the signals/language between camera and flash, particularly regarding HSS |
| #5: Comment posted by Matias on August 30, 2008 - 06:10:52 AM: |
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| I want to connect a Woctron 2820 flash (That worked perfectly on my ex-Canon 350D) on my actual Sony Alpha 200, but i'm quite afraid about frying it, 'couse I'm not sure about the flash voltage and the cameras tolerance. What do you know about this? Should the flash just work or I'm risking my cameras life? Any info about it would help me a lot :) |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| Never heard of that flash. Sony does not specify the voltage limits of their connector. |
| #6: Comment posted by Charlie on September 23, 2008 - 07:50:12 PM: |
|---|
| I have a pair of flashes equiped with the old hotshoe connector wich only has F1 and G. But they flash emidiatly when I connect them to my a100. The resistance is 40ohm. On my other camera there is no connection at all before the actual shortcircuit when you take a picture. Is this the normal resistance between F1 and G on Sony SLR,s or is my a100 faulty. |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| This seems to be normal for the A100 and several other Minolta SLRs, especially those without a built-in PC-sync connector. For these you need some electronics to attach these flashes. The new Sony FA-SH1AM should work. |
| #7: Comment posted by Kenith Ryan on November 20, 2008 - 08:30:39 AM: |
|---|
| Great site Michael. Do you know of any way to record the signals passing between camera and flash. I recently picked up a Wireless Remote Flash Controller and would like to figure out a way to use it with my 7D and 5400HS and 5400xi flashes. I know that there is no way to have TTL with it, but I was thinking that maybe I could make an adapter for it. The camera would trigger the adapter which would in turn trigger the Remote Flash Controller. The adapter would have a control dial or slider for setting the flash duration. Even though I would still be using the flashes manually instead of using TTL metering this setup would have two benefits over my current setup of using the 5400HS in manual mode on the 7D. First, I would be able to use the flashes wireless. And second, I would have more control over the flash output. Right now I can only adjust the output in full stops. With the adapter that I envision the flashes would be set for wireless TTL mode and the adapter would be used to dial in the output that was needed, even in partial stops. I don't know if I can do this but I am sure that it is possible. I just need to figure out the signals the adapter would send to the Wireless Remote Flash Controller to make it think that the camera is talking to it. |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| You could connect the controller to the camera with cables and splice these to measure the signals. But in case of the wireless flash controller, I don't think this would help. DSLRs need to perform pre-flash TTL metering, and the Wireless Flash Controller simply does not implement the protocol to communicate that to the flash. So the problem is not only the communication between camera and controller, but also between controller and flash, and you can't change that with an adapter. |
| #8: Comment posted by Peter on December 09, 2008 - 07:06:20 PM: |
|---|
| Great site - loads of info but not an exact answer to my particular problem. I have TWO digital cameras - Sony Alpha 100 and a Minolta A1. I also have an older Minolta program 4000AF flash unit (from my film days. I would like to use the flash with the cameras and have bought a Minolta FS-1100 adapter. Mechanically they fit together OK BUT I have now been told that the FS-1100 is not a "SafeSync" adapter and could damage my cameras so I have not yet used it. Questions:- Do I need this so called SafeSync? Will the FS-1100 work with my equipment or should I junk the flash and buy one that is directly compatible? Your help will be most gratefully received. Many thanks, Peter |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| The FS-1100 was specifically made to adapt the older Minolta flashes like the 4000AF to the newer Minolta cameras. There's no danger to the camera when using this combination.
But as already explained here, these old flashes do not really work well on digital cameras. You would only be able to use manual flash mode. For something more comfortable you need a digital capable flash, as indicated in the flash table. |
| #9: Comment posted by Dave on December 09, 2008 - 09:30:52 PM: |
|---|
| What are the chances? I've got EXACTLY the same kit as Peter, and was about to ask much the same question, but have been beaten to it by about an hour. FWIW I also have a Nissin 132AFi which worked on my 7000i and 600si, but does not even fire on the A100. So it looks like a new flash for me! Great site, Michael, Sony should give you a prize. Until then, you have my thanks. |
| #10: Comment posted by Peter on December 10, 2008 - 08:15:46 PM: |
|---|
| Thanks for the info Michael. I agree - Sony should give you a prize! Back to my problem with the Program 400AF flash, I have got it to work in the manual mode which is a bit of a let down for such a versatile brute of a flash. At least with digital you can fire off as many test shots as you need to get the aperture selection right. I am probably up for a new flash unit that is more compatible. Many thanks and best regards, Peter |
| #11: Comment posted by kapuchy on February 08, 2009 - 02:02:40 AM: |
|---|
| I have a flash SUNPAK PZ42X for SONY with iISO shoe and when connecting G and F1 nothing happen. Flash work in the manual mode. Anybody knows what must I do with F2 and F3 pins ? |
| #12: Comment posted by Stig on March 24, 2009 - 02:39:40 PM: |
|---|
| I have a Sigma EF-430ST MA. Hope I can use it on a Sony A300 in manual mode but it does not fire. Also when connecting G and F1 it does not fire but it fires when pressing the TEST button. The voltage measured between G and F1 is 4 volts so there must be connection to the pins. Does the flashgun need some kind of signal on the other pins before it fires when connecting G and F1 or is it broken? |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| Sigma has a history of incompatibility. It doesn't surprise me that this flash behaves differently. Sorry, I don't have a solution for your problem. |
| #13: Comment posted by Justyn on April 12, 2009 - 07:54:40 PM: |
|---|
| Hello, I have a Kenro IR Flash Transmitter (http://www.kenro.co.uk/product/TF005/3/35/Kenro+Flash+Transmitter.html) that I'm trying to get to work with my Sony A300 camera. I've bought a couple of different FS1100 hot-shoe adaptors but nothing seems to work. I can trigger the Kenro Transmitter quite happily from other cameras and by shorting the two pins on it's hot-shoe together. Having read some of the above posts I was thinking that maybe the camera needs to see a flash ready signal before it will trigger an external unit? Any ideas/advice would be hugely appreciated! Many thanks, Justyn |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| The camera definately tries to communicate with the flash before triggering it. Usually only cameras with a X-synch connector trigger the flash unconditionally. So unless the device emulates a flash unit properly it may not work.
Instead of using a FS-1100 adapter you may try the Sony FA-HS1AM adapter. It's an adapter specifically made to adapt such third-party devices. The FS-1100 officially only adapts older Minolta AF flashes to the new hot shoe. |
| #14: Comment posted by Justyn on April 14, 2009 - 09:07:51 PM: |
|---|
| Thanks Michael. I've been trying my best to avoid stumping up £90 for the FA-HS1AM so far! |
| #15: Comment posted by Miles on April 19, 2009 - 03:47:16 AM: |
|---|
| Hi, I have a minolta 5000, and I'm wondering if the TTL ok pin is the flash quench signal. Could this be true? Thanks! |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| I don't have further information about the flash protocol. |
| #16: Comment posted by Patrice on April 24, 2009 - 04:54:21 PM: |
|---|
| Hi, I've got 2 flash's SONY HVL-F42AM and SIGMA EF-500 DG, both wont fire when G and F1 are shorted. But work well when mounted on my a200 body. I trying to get this working tru a radio wireless system. Thanks |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| Make sure you use the right pins (the two rear pins), and make sure the resistance between the pins is low enough. |
| #17: Comment posted by Lawrence Wu on May 10, 2009 - 08:54:29 PM: |
|---|
| Michael, is there any way that can disable the sleep (auto off) function in 5400hs/xi flashes? Thanks! |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| I don't know a way to disable this feature. |
| #18: Comment posted by Abraham Love on June 01, 2009 - 12:42:53 PM: |
|---|
| Check this Flickr link http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonp80/3210894914/in/photostream/ that has a mod to stop the 4000AF turning off on its own. Might work with other Minolta flash units too. |
| #19: Comment posted by Sergio on July 13, 2009 - 04:24:00 PM: |
|---|
| I have a flash minolta 5200th I built a pc-sync cable, but combining F1 and G syncs up to 1/40s. Is there a way to sync faster? I also use the other pin? The flash with G and F1 is very late you can help me? Thank you Sergio Italy |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| If you use a regular flash cable (Minolta OC-1100, Sony FA-CC1AM) the camera will sync up with the flash up to the camera's x-sync speed. If you use G and F1 to connect the flash to a non-Minolta camera, there's probably no way you can influence the timing much. |
| #20: Comment posted by Ken on August 06, 2009 - 10:31:53 AM: |
|---|
| Two questions Michael. First, do you know the thread size for the connector on the flash cable? I tried measuring mine, but ould not determine what it is with any certainty. Second, is there a way tht I can determine how the camera tells the flash to turn off in TTL mode. I know that when the camera's meter reads enough light that it comunicates with the flash through F2 and/or F3. I want to know if I can fool the flash into thinking it is getting this signal from the camera. Thanks. |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| The thread size is 9×0.5 mm by my measurements. But the threads are so short, so this may be not precise.
I don't have further info on the flash protocol, see comment #15 above. |
| #21: Comment posted by Tom Wallace on August 18, 2009 - 01:21:20 AM: |
|---|
| Can anybody recomend a 3rd Party hotshoe adapter fr the A200 that will allow me to use a Vivitar 3500 (for Canon) without frying the cameras circuitry? |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| Does it have to be a third-party adapter? The Sony FA-HS1AM has voltage protection. |
| #22: Comment posted by Tom Wallace on August 19, 2009 - 11:18:48 PM: |
|---|
| I'm looking for something third-party with voltage protection because of the Sony unit is pretty expensive. So far the one I've seen on ebay don't have voltage protection and I'm a bit sceptical about the ones that are suposed to have it because just seem to be priced the same as the ones that don't. |
| #23: Comment posted by hannibal on September 05, 2009 - 12:22:10 PM: |
|---|
| Sony Alpha-100 Max Trigger Voltage for Flash,please? I've got a Vivitar 2500 (9-10 V). |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| The maximum voltage on the flash shoe is not specified, and for cameras without a studio flash socket it's probably low. If you want to be sure use an adapter with voltage protection, e.g. the Sony FA-HS1AM. |
| #24: Comment posted by Vincent on October 31, 2009 - 07:04:05 AM: |
|---|
| Michael,excellent info you got here and sharing. I need to know if the G and F1 of my A350 can be used to trigger the Starblitz 1000 Auto Macro Flash without using the FS 1100. Can you enlighten me on this? Thanks. Vincent. |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| As far as I know this flash uses a PC sync connector, i. e. the trigger voltage is potentially high. I therefore recommend using a PC sync adapter with voltage protection, like the Sony FA-ST1AM. |
| #25: Comment posted by Kilrah on December 30, 2009 - 12:48:34 AM: |
|---|
| It seems the F42AM really doesn't want to fire with G and F1 only, or any short of contacts for that matter. Communication must be required for it to do anything. Has someone tackled this in the meantime? I might have a go at sniffing the communications on the flash contacts if not once I receive my extension cord... My goal is to make a strobe controller... |
| #26: Comment posted by Matt Fisher on February 04, 2010 - 10:59:36 AM: |
|---|
| I've had great success "extending" a Sony ttl cable by cutting it in half and soldering 4-wire male phone jacks to each end, and using two gender benders to insert any length of 4 wire phone cable in between. I've tried up to 50 feet and it seems to work perfectly. 2 questions: Is it possible to buy the male and female minolta/sony round connectors? There must be a source for them somewhere. Any idea how the Sony triple connector splits the signals up? Would it be possible to homebrew one? Thanks. |
| Michael Hohner answers: |
| I don't know a source for the connectors. These are proprietary types and are probably only made for Sony.
AFAIK the Triple Connector only splits each incoming line to the corresponding outgoing lines. There are no electronics in the box. |
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